Looking west from South Baldy, Kananskis Country

Looking west from South Baldy, Kananskis Country
Showing posts with label Canmore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Canmore. Show all posts

Friday, 10 June 2016

My First Sister: Middle Sister, Canmore

three sisters

I have a bit of a ticking campaign in motion this year. I'm trying to climb the peaks that are visible along Highways 40 and 1, between the Highwood Pass and Banff. There are quite a lot of them, and some are probably too hard/loose/obscure, but prominent in anybody's list of notable summits would be the Three Sisters, which have featured in numerous books, films, and pub patio views over the years. Of the three, Big Sister is the highest, Little Sister the most difficult, and Middle Sister the most distant from the road.

The trail begins with a painful detour around a construction site and golf course that threatens to add ~5 km to your day. The access constraints seem to change monthly, and at 8 AM on a Sunday, you're unlikely to see too many property developers or golfers (which are essentially the same species), so I shan't describe the start. Once you're in the Stewart Creek canyon, the trail soon vanishes under flood debris, and you're in for 6 km each way of climbing over boulders. It was hot on the day we did this - around 32 C in town - and we carried a lot of water. The creek was flowing, but you never know when it'll dry up for the summer. If you decide to rely on it, bear in mind that we saw two marmot colonies living right alongside the water, so you'll likely want to filter the water for nasties.

three sisters
Little Sister seen from partway up the ascent of Middle Sister

We began the trip with a dislocated shoulder just 100 m from the golf course. Mike was in a bit of pain from this, but fortunately it popped in just as suddenly as it had come out, and he could continue, but without his poles. He gave those to Jason, who was lacking his own poles due to an incident involving a kleptomaniac marmot and a video camera. It was a great film, but it came at a price...

The crux of the hike is an erosion scar on the left-hand bank just before a grassy ridge is attained. The ground is pretty scrabbly, and it's easy to shower your group with loose rocks. Poles help a lot. Above this, the ridge is a pleasant place to sit and admire the view. The next part is a scree slog, and passes under 500 m or so of early-season objective danger. The slopes of Big Sister hold snow and boulders, which become mobile after a few hours of sunshine.

middle sister
Jason on the grassy ridge

middle sister
Starting up the scree approach to the ramp

The scree continues up a giant ramp for about a kilometre, right to the summit - which is the farthest point that you can see on the way up, and the last point on the ramp before the impressive cliffs that separate Middle and Little Sister. The apparent height difference between them when seen in classic profile is an optical illusion; there is actually very little vertical difference, whereas Big Sister appears to be a long way above you. From the summit of Middle Sister we traced the line of the easiest ascent route, which is a rock climb graded about 5.3. It looked unpleasantly loose, and the approach would be a bit of a pig. That objective instantly slipped down my hit list! The views towards Commonwealth Peak and Mt Bogart were excellent.

While relaxing on the summit, we saw an avalanche cascading down Big Sister from slopes similar to those that threaten the Middle Sister ramp. On the descent, we sped as fast as possible down the exposed section, not stopping until we reached the safety of the grassy ridge opposite.

avalanche
Avalanche on Big Sister

middle sister
Looking back down the ramp during our ascent.

middle sister
It feels like a long way up the ramp

Still ascending

Ixta and Serena glad to have reached the easy ground before the summit

middle sister
Mike celebrating an ascent of a Canmore hiking icon

three sisters
Jason and Big Sister

middle sister

Mike pulled out his rather whiffy Mountain Obsession flag for the summit photo, with Little Sister in the background

middle sister
Natasha begins the scenic descent, looking into southern K Country

Ixta enjoying the sun with many waterfalls in the background

Because we were a large group (six people) we wanted to avoid the loose crux slope. We followed a vague trail into trees to the east of it, and spent a questionably enjoyable few minutes fighting our way down steep ground, unable to see our feet. It was safer, but not very pleasant. At least there was no Devil's Club to contend with, though! Afterwards, all that remained was the trudge back down Stewart Creek, rounding off 18 km of rough hiking and 1500 m of ascent. Mike celebrated with an agonizing cramp in his legs, just shy of the golf course. I'd told him earlier that golf courses are evil places, and here was the proof!

middle sister
Mike's jungle adventures...

Thursday, 2 June 2016

Mt. Lawrence Grassi, Canmore

Hiking Mt. Lawrence Grassi

I did a solo hike up Mt. Lawrence Grassi on Wednesday. It was my first mountain hike since picking up a couple of injuries about eight weeks ago. My target of 52 hikes for the year is looking a little shaky now, but I’m hoping to sink some big ones soon, as the snow clears. The hike is straightforward, apart from one point where I almost missed the turning out of the creek. I missed this cairn:


And this wooden marker:


And this red arrow:


Before tripping over this stone arrow.



On the way down, when I reached the same point, I looked up at the sky and saw this arrow pointing down my route...


Apart from this little navigational blip, the route is mostly a hike, with a bit near the top that requires care while crossing slabs covered in ball-bearing pebbles. I saw a large bighorn sheep ram, and chatted with three nice older ladies on the summit.


Red Paintbrush


Bighorn ram wandering towards Goat Creek

spray valley

Looking down Spray lake

spray valley

Spray Lake and central Kananaskis Country


The true summit of Lawrence Grassi is on the left. The slightly sketchy section of the ramp is visible below it

Lawrence Grassi

Bow Valley from Grassi summit

Mt Rundle

Ha Ling, Mt. Rundle and a distant view of Cascade Mountain

Lawrence grassi

Summit selfie

Essentials

Mt. Lawrence Grassi, near Canmore
~11 km, 1,000 m of ascent.
Easy scrambling with one short, potentially dangerous stretch.

Sunday, 25 October 2015

A Fall Paddle from Canmore to Dead Man's Flats

The canoe jolts suddenly, struck below the waterline by an unseen and uncaring submerged tree, dead for several seasons. I throw my weight to counter, but I'm too late, and the last thing I see is the wetly gleaming hull of my boat as it rolls like a breaching whale, pitching me into the freezing black water, and pushing me under. Shockingly cold water steals my breath in an instant. As I kick out to clear myself from the boat and return to the surface, my legs are clasped by sharp spindly fingers, and the indifferent water surges downwards, twisting and folding me under slick, unyielding branches. Stirred silt wells up, the encroaching clouds casting a sudden twilight. From this forgotten forest the flickering mountains are impossibly distant. Somewhere above the surface in the clean blue air of fall, my companions watch in horror and hope as my waterlogged boat circles lazily into a safe eddy like a loyal returning dog, but the string of bubbles that flows from beneath the strainer soon stops, and the mountains' reflections are repaired.

Both times that I have paddled from Canmore to Dead Man's Flats I have been glad of the low water that characterises fall on the Bow, because there is a stretch that involves threading a narrow channel between logjams, and avoiding sweepers. The name "Dead Man's Flats" relates to a local fratricide, rather than a drowning, but I have heard of at least one nasty entrapment occurring in a sweeper here. Fortunately, that one ended well, but be warned! The river splits into several small channels, most of which are not safely navigable. In low water, it may be easy enough for an appropriately skilled paddler to dawdle along, working out the correct route, and portaging where necessary. In higher flows, however, this can be much more difficult - and potentially deadly. Beware also that conditions change every year, and it would not take much for a new hazard to close the existing routes. Perhaps I'm playing up the danger a bit, but I'd hate to hear of anyone else getting into difficulty on this reach, when the hazards have been well-publicized.

Classic canoe, classic setting.

This is AFTER the tight section, showing further sweepers in a narrow channel. The sweepers are accompanied by underwater logjams.

We had perfect conditions in late October 2015. Blue sky, no wind, and low water. Lou took her new little lightweight boat, and enjoyed trying it out on moving water.

Spot the Australian. Ruffians. Lou and Ha Ling.
This is one of the most scenic local paddles. If it were not for the sweepers, it might even be more popular than Banff-Canmore, although the noisy TransCanada highway is never far away, and at one point on the most recent trip we heard gunshots not far to the south. We were fortunate to be shown the correct channel a few years ago by a friend and Canmore local. Without that knowledge, it would be easy to end up in a logjam. Thanks Don!

Paddling past Grotto Mountain Mike, Jack and Betty.
Unfortunately for Mike, this trip led to a sad parting with his favourite camera. While drifting backwards and setting up for an upstream shot, his boat closed on a midstream log. Lindsey and Mar shouted a warning, but as he reacted, the camera went overboard. There followed a few minutes of frantic, and eventually successful, river searching by various party members, but the post mortem indicated drowning to be the probable cause of death.

Mike and Suzanne paying "hunt the DSLR" Lou in her little red boat.
Trip Details

Canmore to Dead Man's Flats
Sweeper and logjam hazards - low water preferable.
Allow about five hours.
Guidebook: Mark’s Guide for Alberta Paddlers