A Fall Paddle from Canmore to Dead Man's Flats

The canoe jolts suddenly, struck below the waterline by an unseen and uncaring submerged tree, dead for several seasons. I throw my weight to counter, but I'm too late, and the last thing I see is the wetly gleaming hull of my boat as it rolls like a breaching whale, pitching me into the freezing black water, and pushing me under. Shockingly cold water steals my breath in an instant. As I kick out to clear myself from the boat and return to the surface, my legs are clasped by sharp spindly fingers, and the indifferent water surges downwards, twisting and folding me under slick, unyielding branches. Stirred silt wells up, the encroaching clouds casting a sudden twilight. From this forgotten forest the flickering mountains are impossibly distant. Somewhere above the surface in the clean blue air of fall, my companions watch in horror and hope as my waterlogged boat circles lazily into a safe eddy like a loyal returning dog, but the string of bubbles that flows from beneath the strainer soon stops, and the mountains' reflections are repaired.

Both times that I have paddled from Canmore to Dead Man's Flats I have been glad of the low water that characterises fall on the Bow, because there is a stretch that involves threading a narrow channel between logjams, and avoiding sweepers. The name "Dead Man's Flats" relates to a local fratricide, rather than a drowning, but I have heard of at least one nasty entrapment occurring in a sweeper here. Fortunately, that one ended well, but be warned! The river splits into several small channels, most of which are not safely navigable. In low water, it may be easy enough for an appropriately skilled paddler to dawdle along, working out the correct route, and portaging where necessary. In higher flows, however, this can be much more difficult - and potentially deadly. Beware also that conditions change every year, and it would not take much for a new hazard to close the existing routes. Perhaps I'm playing up the danger a bit, but I'd hate to hear of anyone else getting into difficulty on this reach, when the hazards have been well-publicized.

Classic canoe, classic setting.

This is AFTER the tight section, showing further sweepers in a narrow channel. The sweepers are accompanied by underwater logjams.

We had perfect conditions in late October 2015. Blue sky, no wind, and low water. Lou took her new little lightweight boat, and enjoyed trying it out on moving water.

Spot the Australian. Ruffians.

Lou and Ha Ling.

This is one of the most scenic local paddles. If it were not for the sweepers, it might even be more popular than Banff-Canmore, although the noisy TransCanada highway is never far away, and at one point on the most recent trip we heard gunshots not far to the south. We were fortunate to be shown the correct channel a few years ago by a friend and Canmore local. Without that knowledge, it would be easy to end up in a logjam. Thanks Don!

Paddling past Grotto Mountain

Mike, Jack and Betty.

Unfortunately for Mike, this trip led to a sad parting with his favourite camera. While drifting backwards and setting up for an upstream shot, his boat closed on a midstream log. Lindsey and Mar shouted a warning, but as he reacted, the camera went overboard. There followed a few minutes of frantic, and eventually successful, river searching by various party members, but the post mortem indicated drowning to be the probable cause of death.

Mike and Suzanne paying "hunt the DSLR"

Lou in her little red boat.

Trip Details

Canmore to Dead Man's Flats
Sweeper and logjam hazards - low water preferable.
Allow about five hours.
Guidebook: Mark’s Guide for Alberta Paddlers